After a restful nights sleep we awoke excited and
ready to begin our Alaska adventure. The first leg of our journey would take
us on the Seward Highway, a 127 mile long road that has been called one of the
most scenic highways in the country. It was designated a National Forest
Scenic Byway in 1998, and an All-American Road in 2000, one of only 15 roads
recognized for spectacular scenery. The highway passes through the Chugach
National Forest permitting outstanding panoramic views of the Kenai Peninsula
and Mountains, and also of the Turnagain Arm. An extension of Cook Inlet, the
Turnagain Arm is a beautiful body of water, surrounded by lofty mountains and
scenic trails. It is also home to a phenomenon known as a bore tide, this
abrupt rise of tidal water, sometimes as high as 6 feet, rushes down the arm
so rapidly that it often creates a wave suitable for surfing. If you are
interested in seeing this tide in action there are several stops along the
road that list the best viewing times. One good vantage point is Beluga Point,
where you might also catch a glimpse of the all-white beluga whale.
Our first stop along the Seward Highway was
Potter
Marsh. This State Game Refuge offers a nice stroll along a boardwalk and is
the perfect place for bird-watching. We stretched our legs on this short walk
and were able to view several bird species including, yellowlegs, gulls, and
kingfishers. You can read more about our hike at Natural Born Hikers. (All of
the hikes mentioned in this journal can be reviewed on Natural Born Hikers by
clicking on the hyperlink.)
Other highlights along the Seward Highway include
the town of Portage, or rather the remnants of the town. A deteriorating
building off the side of the road is just about all that is left after an
earthquake in 1964 destroyed the town. Just a few more miles down the road is
Tern Lake Junction, from here we turned onto the Sterling Highway headed for
the town of Homer. Along the way we stopped to hike to
Russian River Falls in
the Chugach National Forest. Its highlights include the possibility of viewing
moose, bears, and spawning salmon. During our hike we didn’t come across bear
or moose, but we did see several bright red salmon making their way upstream
at the falls. Our disappointment at not seeing any moose was short-lived, just
after leaving the park and driving down the Sterling Highway we encountered a
female moose and her two calves. Our first day in Alaska was living up to its
reputation as a wildlife and scenic paradise.
Just before reaching the town of Homer we took a
detour to the village of
Ninilchik, where you can hike to a beautiful Old
Russian Church. The Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church
sits high on a hill overlooking the village and Cook Inlet. The views and
scenic setting make this a worthwhile stop.
From Anchor Point, the Sterling Highway climbs until
it is overlooking Kachemak Bay. Then, in just a few more miles, the city of
Homer and the Homer Spit come into view. The scene is absolutely majestic. The
Homer Spit stretches out into Kachemak Bay and the Kenai Mountains serve as a
soaring backdrop. We instantly fell in love with Homer; it was to become our
favorite town in Alaska. While visiting we stayed at the Heritage Hotel, a
rustic yet charming original log hotel. The staff was friendly and courteous
and the rooms were nice enough that I would stay there again. We also highly
recommend the restaurant Fat Olives. They have incredible atmosphere, it seems
more like a restaurant in New York City or Chicago, and their food is
fantastic. The quality and presentation of the food is amazing, from the salad
to the entrée to the dessert, everything was top notch. They specialize in
wood-fired oven pizza, which they also sell by the slice, and entrees such as
Pan Roasted Pork Loin, Alaska Scallops, and Oven Roasted Chicken. The deserts
are also not to be missed; among our favorites were the mile high chocolate
cake, the carrot cake, and the turtle pie. We loved this place so much we went
there twice.
We ended the day with a walk on
Bishop Beach
and the
Homer Spit. The sand on the beach was beautifully rippled by the action of the
waves, and the standing water was picking up the reflection of the evening
sun. It was a great way to unwind after a long day of driving.
